Firmware changes and first prints

So I ended up applying all firmware changes except for the Y axis. This seemed to make only issues with the calibration and did not make any sense to me.

I have created a Github fork of the original Prusa code here and will upload my binaries as well.
But remember they are working for my printer with the Titan Aqua clone, use them on your own risk!

https://github.com/empusas/Prusa-Firmware

Now it was time to perform the first layer calibration. After hassle with the filament I noticed that the new(!) nozzle was blocked. So I had to take the hot end apart and replaced the nozzle. I heated up the nozzle again and now I could push filament thru.

I wanted to test the build plate stickers I got from Aliexpress, but unfortunately they are thicker than the Prusa PEI sheets. So I had problems to get the PLA lines from the sticker after the calibration as the nozzle was too close.
What is also irritating is that the stickers have the same markings as the magnetic heat bed. So just in case you think I am printing directly on the magnetic heated when you look at the photos,  be assured I am not.

So now it was time for the first print. I picked a small part to print and was successful with my standard Prusa MK3 profile.

Then I felt comfortable to perform a more sophisticated print. I changed the extruder steps per mm, so it was obvious to print the extruder linearity correction calibration object from Prusa.

https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa3D-Test-Objects/tree/master/MK3/ECOR_TOWER

This tower is printed with a single parameter wall and changes the correction factor every few mm.
I took the Prusa G-code file without any changes and was surprised about the good result.
I need to deeply analyze the print to figure out the correct factor, but It shows already that I don't have any major flaws.

Now I wanted to print my first big objects. One reason is that I wanted to monitor how a printer over 10h performs. The other reason was that I wanted to see how much the temperature from the cooling water would rise during such a long print.
But I didn't want to print this one from SD card. So it was time to install the Raspberry Pi that I prepared in an earlier blog post.

The installation was easy and the octoprint server came up without any issues.

The first problem I encountered was that the steel plate was moving on the heat bed. Not sure if the distance is too big for the magnets because of the thicker stickers, or if the sticker on the backside of the steel sheet is too slippery. Anyway, I ended up securing the position with tape.

I even made some photos and a video. Like to see some first layer porn?

Remember the lines from the first layer calibration? That is what you see here.